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AJracer33a- Admin
- Car : 95 Talon TSi AWD
Posts : 684
Reputation : 12
Join date : 2012-01-18
Location : Athens, PA
This is my project log on my 93 Eagle Talon Tsi Awd. Here is a little background on me and my Talon.
DATE- 12-1-10
Talon-
Specs- 93 Eagle Talon TSi AWD | Automatic Trans | 4G63T | 7 Bolt Engine | 4 Bolt Rear
Mods- 3" exhaust | K&N Air Filter | NGK Plugs | NGK Wires
Background- My Talon's name is "Felicity" named by the previous owner (who happens to be a cute female ). Her and I keep in touch. First we were just texting each other about the Talon. Shortly after, it turned into something else. Now we are planning to date. Anyway, I kept the name she gave my Talon. It is just about stock except for a few mods. I bought the car last month (early November or maybe late October). Since then, I have replaced the coil pack, plugs, wires, oil, valve cover, and maybe a few other things I am forgetting.
Me- I have owned 5 1G N/A's previous to this Tsi Awd. I learned alot thanks to the unreliabuility of these cars. I enjoyed every minute of it. I loved to work on them and learning more every day. Now, I finally got my Tsi Awd. I am determined to learn about these turbo charged engines and AWD drivetrain.
Recent Issues with Talon- I was on my way to my mothers for Thanksgiving last Friday which is a 3 hour drive from my place. About halfway, I dropped a cylinder. I finally made it to moms, got on Tuners, posted my problem in the Newbie Forum, and a couple great guys came over and looked at the Talon. They found I had a bad injector on cylinder 1. So, they let me barrow a 450cc injector to get home. My car has the stock 390cc injectors, so I am experiancing some power problems due to it. I am looking for another 390cc injector asap. Hopefully I get one soon. While those guys were there, they noticed my timing was off. So they took off the timing belt, and re-timed the engine. I can't thank these guys enough for the huge help.
Near Future Plans- First things first, I need to get another injector. Once that is out of the way, I will continue on the maintenance. I may have some boost leaks and I have an exhaust leak from a poor exhaust manifold gasket. After that, I want to get an aftermarket boost gauge, and a boost controller. I would like to also get some hard IC piping and a FMIC. If I can find a good deal on a dsmlink, that is definitely on the list as well.
I also put on a new valve cover that I had painted over 2 years ago. It was a wall ornament in my bed room, figured I would put it to good use. Engine bay is extremely dirty but it will be cleaned up soon.
Summary- All in all, I have alot to learn, and alot of maintenance ahead of me and I am looking forward to every minute of it.
DATE- 12-1-10
Talon-
Specs- 93 Eagle Talon TSi AWD | Automatic Trans | 4G63T | 7 Bolt Engine | 4 Bolt Rear
Mods- 3" exhaust | K&N Air Filter | NGK Plugs | NGK Wires
Background- My Talon's name is "Felicity" named by the previous owner (who happens to be a cute female ). Her and I keep in touch. First we were just texting each other about the Talon. Shortly after, it turned into something else. Now we are planning to date. Anyway, I kept the name she gave my Talon. It is just about stock except for a few mods. I bought the car last month (early November or maybe late October). Since then, I have replaced the coil pack, plugs, wires, oil, valve cover, and maybe a few other things I am forgetting.
Me- I have owned 5 1G N/A's previous to this Tsi Awd. I learned alot thanks to the unreliabuility of these cars. I enjoyed every minute of it. I loved to work on them and learning more every day. Now, I finally got my Tsi Awd. I am determined to learn about these turbo charged engines and AWD drivetrain.
Recent Issues with Talon- I was on my way to my mothers for Thanksgiving last Friday which is a 3 hour drive from my place. About halfway, I dropped a cylinder. I finally made it to moms, got on Tuners, posted my problem in the Newbie Forum, and a couple great guys came over and looked at the Talon. They found I had a bad injector on cylinder 1. So, they let me barrow a 450cc injector to get home. My car has the stock 390cc injectors, so I am experiancing some power problems due to it. I am looking for another 390cc injector asap. Hopefully I get one soon. While those guys were there, they noticed my timing was off. So they took off the timing belt, and re-timed the engine. I can't thank these guys enough for the huge help.
Near Future Plans- First things first, I need to get another injector. Once that is out of the way, I will continue on the maintenance. I may have some boost leaks and I have an exhaust leak from a poor exhaust manifold gasket. After that, I want to get an aftermarket boost gauge, and a boost controller. I would like to also get some hard IC piping and a FMIC. If I can find a good deal on a dsmlink, that is definitely on the list as well.
I also put on a new valve cover that I had painted over 2 years ago. It was a wall ornament in my bed room, figured I would put it to good use. Engine bay is extremely dirty but it will be cleaned up soon.
Summary- All in all, I have alot to learn, and alot of maintenance ahead of me and I am looking forward to every minute of it.
DATE- 12-4-10
I got my stock 390cc injector in the mail today. I popped it in and she's got more power than she did before. Finally, I can give it more than 1/4 throttle! Still have some boost leaks somewhere. But none the less, a step in the right direction. Next to do, boost gauge, boost leaks, and check everything over.
I got my stock 390cc injector in the mail today. I popped it in and she's got more power than she did before. Finally, I can give it more than 1/4 throttle! Still have some boost leaks somewhere. But none the less, a step in the right direction. Next to do, boost gauge, boost leaks, and check everything over.
DATE- 12-22-10
After some tests and experiments, I found out my alternator not only shit the bed, but it is causing my "studdering" that I thought was from boost leaks. I am not saying I don't have any boost leaks, but I know a majority of my problems are caused from a failing alternator. Here is a video describing my problems. https://www.facebook.com/video/video....v=478578917962 . I recorded this yesterday. So, hopefully tomorrow I will have some money for a new alternator. I am puting the damn thing on as soon as I get it.
Once the alternator is installed, maybe I can finally start getting things that I want and not things I necessarily need. Something that has really been bothering me is the damaged body parts. The hood and drivers side front fender, are damaged from a tree falling on the car before I bought it. New hood and fender are a must in the near future. Another thing really aggravating me is the side skirts that are partly dangling and sagging. That should be an easy fix.
I took a few pictures and a video today so here they are for viewing pleasure. Did a little photoshopping as well.
After some tests and experiments, I found out my alternator not only shit the bed, but it is causing my "studdering" that I thought was from boost leaks. I am not saying I don't have any boost leaks, but I know a majority of my problems are caused from a failing alternator. Here is a video describing my problems. https://www.facebook.com/video/video....v=478578917962 . I recorded this yesterday. So, hopefully tomorrow I will have some money for a new alternator. I am puting the damn thing on as soon as I get it.
Once the alternator is installed, maybe I can finally start getting things that I want and not things I necessarily need. Something that has really been bothering me is the damaged body parts. The hood and drivers side front fender, are damaged from a tree falling on the car before I bought it. New hood and fender are a must in the near future. Another thing really aggravating me is the side skirts that are partly dangling and sagging. That should be an easy fix.
I took a few pictures and a video today so here they are for viewing pleasure. Did a little photoshopping as well.
DATE- 6-10-11
Well, it has been awhile since I have made an entry. So I will try and recap what has happened over the last few months.
That girl I bought my car off of, we have been dating since January and we live together. Yeah.
I bought an Autometer boost gauge. I like it, works well. I have been replacing things left and right. Brake calipers, rotors, pads, oil, valve covers, plugs, etc.
The car looks much better now. Painted and cleaned the engine bay, polished a couple things like the intake manifold and CAS, it looks great. Painted a new valve cover and it turned out very well. Also, painted the side pannels so they match the rest of the car a little more.
Still no 450cc injectors, FMIC, upper IC pipes, walbro, blah blah blah.
Recently I have been having tranny problems that I am confident can be fixed with a new torque converter seal.
And for the kicker, this past monday the timing jumped a couple teeth. Needless to say, I am replacing the head.
But I'm not stopping there. I am getting a new head and some Web 546/547 cams to go in them. Along with them I am getting ARP head studs and a cometic head gasket. Should be fun.
So I now have a nice little build on my hands. I have been wanting to do something with my head for a while now but couldn't deal with the down time. I tend to go nuts when I don't have a drivable DSM.
The timing jumping and bending a valve or two is like an excuse to do what I had planned. At least that's how I am thinking of it so I can get through this with my head held high.
Well, it has been awhile since I have made an entry. So I will try and recap what has happened over the last few months.
That girl I bought my car off of, we have been dating since January and we live together. Yeah.
I bought an Autometer boost gauge. I like it, works well. I have been replacing things left and right. Brake calipers, rotors, pads, oil, valve covers, plugs, etc.
The car looks much better now. Painted and cleaned the engine bay, polished a couple things like the intake manifold and CAS, it looks great. Painted a new valve cover and it turned out very well. Also, painted the side pannels so they match the rest of the car a little more.
Still no 450cc injectors, FMIC, upper IC pipes, walbro, blah blah blah.
Recently I have been having tranny problems that I am confident can be fixed with a new torque converter seal.
And for the kicker, this past monday the timing jumped a couple teeth. Needless to say, I am replacing the head.
But I'm not stopping there. I am getting a new head and some Web 546/547 cams to go in them. Along with them I am getting ARP head studs and a cometic head gasket. Should be fun.
So I now have a nice little build on my hands. I have been wanting to do something with my head for a while now but couldn't deal with the down time. I tend to go nuts when I don't have a drivable DSM.
The timing jumping and bending a valve or two is like an excuse to do what I had planned. At least that's how I am thinking of it so I can get through this with my head held high.
DATE- 6-11-11
I think I got a good bit of my parts list for my upcoming build. Just with this stuff, I am looking at almost $800. I didn't intend on spending that much but if I am going to do things right, then that's what it's going to consist. It would be dumb to install a new head with aftermarket cams with out getting all my timing belts, tensioners, pulleys, etc. If I get all this done and the belt snaps a week later or the tensioner takes a shit, I am not going to be very happy.
After taking a look at the list and parts I am going to get, it made me not want to stop. I will also be getting a new water pump, injectors, oil pan gasket, passenger front axle, torque convertor seal, as well as some other things. I have never been able to deal with not being able to drive a DSM when it is down, so I think it is about time I suck it up and build. Sure, I could have all this done and no time. But the couple of weeks of down time would be for nothing if I don't give the car some go fast parts and have the same amount of power I did before all this work. It's time to make my work count.
I would like some more idea's on what to get and do while the engine is dissembled. My oil pan gasket is leaking. So I will put on a new gasket, my tranny is messing up from a bad torque convertor seal, and the passenger front axle is clickity-clicking. There are several things like this that I will be taking care of all in one shot.
Heres the list so far:
1G 7 Bolt Head- $125
Engine Gasket Kit- $128.94 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SL...1704/?rtype=10
Webs 546/547 Cams- $155 (bought from a friend. Good deal.) Web Cam Inc. - Performance and Racing Camshafts
ARP Head Studs- $65 used. Low Miles, torqued once.
Gates OEM Timing Belt Kit- Black Belt- $145.92 Comes with all tensioners. http://www.thedsmgraveyard.com/Produ...CK167&CartID=1
APR Lubricant- $2 ARP 100-9908 - ARP Ultra Torque Assembly Lubricants - Overview - SummitRacing.com
HKS Pink Oil Filter- $25 http://www.streettunedmotorsports.co...oil_filter.htm
Royal Purple 20W-50 Motor Oil- $50
Torque Convertor Seal- $6.51 RockAuto.com
Passenger Front Axle- $53.79 RockAuto.com
Oil Pan Gasket- $4.18 RockAuto.com
Transmission Filter- $18.43 RockAuto.com
Right Rear Brake Caliper- Warrantee from Carquest
Walbro 190 Fuel Fump- $90 Ebay.com
Read more: http://eatsleepdsm.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=projectlogs&action=display&thread=3&page=1#ixzz1knKSm2V0
I think I got a good bit of my parts list for my upcoming build. Just with this stuff, I am looking at almost $800. I didn't intend on spending that much but if I am going to do things right, then that's what it's going to consist. It would be dumb to install a new head with aftermarket cams with out getting all my timing belts, tensioners, pulleys, etc. If I get all this done and the belt snaps a week later or the tensioner takes a shit, I am not going to be very happy.
After taking a look at the list and parts I am going to get, it made me not want to stop. I will also be getting a new water pump, injectors, oil pan gasket, passenger front axle, torque convertor seal, as well as some other things. I have never been able to deal with not being able to drive a DSM when it is down, so I think it is about time I suck it up and build. Sure, I could have all this done and no time. But the couple of weeks of down time would be for nothing if I don't give the car some go fast parts and have the same amount of power I did before all this work. It's time to make my work count.
I would like some more idea's on what to get and do while the engine is dissembled. My oil pan gasket is leaking. So I will put on a new gasket, my tranny is messing up from a bad torque convertor seal, and the passenger front axle is clickity-clicking. There are several things like this that I will be taking care of all in one shot.
Heres the list so far:
1G 7 Bolt Head- $125
Engine Gasket Kit- $128.94 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SL...1704/?rtype=10
Webs 546/547 Cams- $155 (bought from a friend. Good deal.) Web Cam Inc. - Performance and Racing Camshafts
ARP Head Studs- $65 used. Low Miles, torqued once.
Gates OEM Timing Belt Kit- Black Belt- $145.92 Comes with all tensioners. http://www.thedsmgraveyard.com/Produ...CK167&CartID=1
APR Lubricant- $2 ARP 100-9908 - ARP Ultra Torque Assembly Lubricants - Overview - SummitRacing.com
HKS Pink Oil Filter- $25 http://www.streettunedmotorsports.co...oil_filter.htm
Royal Purple 20W-50 Motor Oil- $50
Torque Convertor Seal- $6.51 RockAuto.com
Passenger Front Axle- $53.79 RockAuto.com
Oil Pan Gasket- $4.18 RockAuto.com
Transmission Filter- $18.43 RockAuto.com
Right Rear Brake Caliper- Warrantee from Carquest
Walbro 190 Fuel Fump- $90 Ebay.com
Read more: http://eatsleepdsm.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=projectlogs&action=display&thread=3&page=1#ixzz1knKSm2V0
DATE- 6-18-11
Parts are all ordered as of today. Here is what I bought.
7 Bolt 1G Head- $95 and some parts traded. Exhaust Manifold bolts need rehellicoiled and cams put in.
Full Engine Gasket Set- $130.33. Bought from Summit. Thanks to Paul for suggesting it!
ARP Head Studs and Lube $80. New.
Timing Belt Kit- $88.01. From Extreme PSI.
Jay Racing Timing Belt Tool Kit- $65.50. Also suggested by Paul.
Ended up spending a total of $458.84. I still need to get oil and a filter yet. I am going with Royal Purple as usual.
The full engine gasket kit comes with an oil pan gasket. Mine is leaking so I will be replacing that as well.
I also changed my mind on getting those Web Cams. I will be sticking with the stock 1G cams for now. My budget was only $500 and I made it!
I cannot wait to get all these parts and begin the work!
Parts are all ordered as of today. Here is what I bought.
7 Bolt 1G Head- $95 and some parts traded. Exhaust Manifold bolts need rehellicoiled and cams put in.
Full Engine Gasket Set- $130.33. Bought from Summit. Thanks to Paul for suggesting it!
ARP Head Studs and Lube $80. New.
Timing Belt Kit- $88.01. From Extreme PSI.
Jay Racing Timing Belt Tool Kit- $65.50. Also suggested by Paul.
Ended up spending a total of $458.84. I still need to get oil and a filter yet. I am going with Royal Purple as usual.
The full engine gasket kit comes with an oil pan gasket. Mine is leaking so I will be replacing that as well.
I also changed my mind on getting those Web Cams. I will be sticking with the stock 1G cams for now. My budget was only $500 and I made it!
I cannot wait to get all these parts and begin the work!
7-23-11
After replacing my head and still having a knock, I found the problem to be a rod knocking. So, I decided it was time for a complete engine rebuild. I did not want to do a stock rebuild if I am going to be doing all of this work. I would kick myself in the ass for my upgrading something. But at the same time, I am on a cheap budget.
I found a great deal on Evo 8 pistons and rods for $100 shipped so I bought them. Next, I will be buying Evo 8 rings, 1G rod bearings, and 1G main bearings. After I pull the engine out, I will take it apart and hone the cylinder walls and get my crank checked before installing the new internals.
While the engine is out, I plan on dropping the battery and mounting it on the sub frame. I have also considered getting rid of my power steering, but still am unsure if I will go through with it.
When the engine is bare after the old internals are out, I am going to clean it thoroughly and prep it for paint. I will be using some type of purple hi temp engine paint.
Once I begin the work, I will be posing up some pics.
After replacing my head and still having a knock, I found the problem to be a rod knocking. So, I decided it was time for a complete engine rebuild. I did not want to do a stock rebuild if I am going to be doing all of this work. I would kick myself in the ass for my upgrading something. But at the same time, I am on a cheap budget.
I found a great deal on Evo 8 pistons and rods for $100 shipped so I bought them. Next, I will be buying Evo 8 rings, 1G rod bearings, and 1G main bearings. After I pull the engine out, I will take it apart and hone the cylinder walls and get my crank checked before installing the new internals.
While the engine is out, I plan on dropping the battery and mounting it on the sub frame. I have also considered getting rid of my power steering, but still am unsure if I will go through with it.
When the engine is bare after the old internals are out, I am going to clean it thoroughly and prep it for paint. I will be using some type of purple hi temp engine paint.
Once I begin the work, I will be posing up some pics.
7-29-11
I got my Evo 8 Pistons and Rods in the mail the other day. They were very well packaged and are in great shape. Here are a few pics of them.
I got my Evo 8 Pistons and Rods in the mail the other day. They were very well packaged and are in great shape. Here are a few pics of them.
7-30-11
I am currently waiting to find a place to put my Talon while I do the engine build. Hopefully something comes up soon. I am not having much luck thus far.
I am planning on using a Hurst Promatic II shifter and doing a "manumatic" mod. I have all the info I need and will make a write up on it on here after I get permission to do so. Here is a pic of the Hurst Promatic II shifter.
I am currently waiting to find a place to put my Talon while I do the engine build. Hopefully something comes up soon. I am not having much luck thus far.
I am planning on using a Hurst Promatic II shifter and doing a "manumatic" mod. I have all the info I need and will make a write up on it on here after I get permission to do so. Here is a pic of the Hurst Promatic II shifter.
I may get a wally 250 as it could come in handy for future mods. It only costs $20 or so more than the 190 so I will probably go with the 250lph.
I am just going to buy a new hood, fender, and front bumper to save myself the headache of body work. Wish we did live closer though because I am sure you could teach me a thing or two about body work. There is a large dent in the roof that is going to be difficult to get out.
I am just going to buy a new hood, fender, and front bumper to save myself the headache of body work. Wish we did live closer though because I am sure you could teach me a thing or two about body work. There is a large dent in the roof that is going to be difficult to get out.
8-4-11
I pulled the head liner down to see and there are some braces and suck directly under it. So unless I do some cutting, I wouldn't be able to get to the dent from the under side and I wouldn't want to hack into the roof for safety reasons. The dent is right at the corner of the windshield. I didn't think to snap any pics of it while I was working on it.
Today, I pulled out the battery, ABS unit, IC pipes/hoses, disconnected the throttle linkage, all wires and vacuum lines, etc. Already had the alternator, all pulleys, and driver side upper engine mount off.
Now I just need to get the Talon in the inlaws garage, pull the axles from the tranny, drain the anti freeze, and take out the remaining two engine mounts (rear and transmission mounts). I would say another hour or so's work untill the engine is ready to come up through. Shooting for early next week to get it out.
I pulled the head liner down to see and there are some braces and suck directly under it. So unless I do some cutting, I wouldn't be able to get to the dent from the under side and I wouldn't want to hack into the roof for safety reasons. The dent is right at the corner of the windshield. I didn't think to snap any pics of it while I was working on it.
Today, I pulled out the battery, ABS unit, IC pipes/hoses, disconnected the throttle linkage, all wires and vacuum lines, etc. Already had the alternator, all pulleys, and driver side upper engine mount off.
Now I just need to get the Talon in the inlaws garage, pull the axles from the tranny, drain the anti freeze, and take out the remaining two engine mounts (rear and transmission mounts). I would say another hour or so's work untill the engine is ready to come up through. Shooting for early next week to get it out.
Date- 8-5-11
Did some work on the Talon yesterday. Here is a list of what I got accomplished...
*Removed Intake Pipe Assembly
*Removed ABS Unit
*Removed Battery
*Removed Battery Tray
*Removed Battery Mount
*Removed Alternator
*Removed all Pulleys
*Removed all Accessory Belts
*Removed Upper Engine Bount
*Removed all Vacuum Lines
*Removed Throttle Linkage
*Disconnected all Wires and Connectors
*Set my new Aftermarket Headlights in place (Just for shits and giggles)
Now I need to get the car into the inlaws' garage where I can finish removing stuff. Before the engine is ready to be removed, I need to do the following....
*Remove the Hood
*Remove remaining Engine/Transmission Mounts
*Drain the Coolant
*Remove the Transfer Case
*Remove both front Axles
Once these are taken care of, the engine is ready to come out. Here are some pictures.
Did some work on the Talon yesterday. Here is a list of what I got accomplished...
*Removed Intake Pipe Assembly
*Removed ABS Unit
*Removed Battery
*Removed Battery Tray
*Removed Battery Mount
*Removed Alternator
*Removed all Pulleys
*Removed all Accessory Belts
*Removed Upper Engine Bount
*Removed all Vacuum Lines
*Removed Throttle Linkage
*Disconnected all Wires and Connectors
*Set my new Aftermarket Headlights in place (Just for shits and giggles)
Now I need to get the car into the inlaws' garage where I can finish removing stuff. Before the engine is ready to be removed, I need to do the following....
*Remove the Hood
*Remove remaining Engine/Transmission Mounts
*Drain the Coolant
*Remove the Transfer Case
*Remove both front Axles
Once these are taken care of, the engine is ready to come out. Here are some pictures.
8-12-11
This week, I was able to remove the axles, transfer case, oil pan, roll stop support bars, O2 housing, exhaust, and some other shit. As soon as I get a cherry picker, another hours worth of work and the engine will be completely out.
After I got the oil pan off, I wiggled each rod. The rod in cylinder 2 was alot of play. Alot. Which means that is in fact my problem. There was also some small pieces of metal in the oil pan. Very fine metal shavings. Almost sand like.
Should have the cherry picker monday and will allow me to have the engine out monday as well.
In the process of removing all of this stuff, found out just how many things needing replaced. I need new both front axles, turbo hot side, exhaust manifold, O2 housing, lower control arms (ball joints are shot), and some other stuff.
After I get all the parts and supplies, I will be good to go. I will have to spend roughly another $300-400 for everything. Bringing me to a grand total of $1100-1200 spent on my build. Not counting things I purchased that I couldn't use.
This week, I was able to remove the axles, transfer case, oil pan, roll stop support bars, O2 housing, exhaust, and some other shit. As soon as I get a cherry picker, another hours worth of work and the engine will be completely out.
After I got the oil pan off, I wiggled each rod. The rod in cylinder 2 was alot of play. Alot. Which means that is in fact my problem. There was also some small pieces of metal in the oil pan. Very fine metal shavings. Almost sand like.
Should have the cherry picker monday and will allow me to have the engine out monday as well.
In the process of removing all of this stuff, found out just how many things needing replaced. I need new both front axles, turbo hot side, exhaust manifold, O2 housing, lower control arms (ball joints are shot), and some other stuff.
After I get all the parts and supplies, I will be good to go. I will have to spend roughly another $300-400 for everything. Bringing me to a grand total of $1100-1200 spent on my build. Not counting things I purchased that I couldn't use.
8-17-11
This damn car has been a HUGE PITA! Heres the story, the car is my DD, had 163K and when I was up north visiting family and picking up my daughter from the crazy ex gf, my engine decided to take a dump. Left the car at my dads for a bit then made the trip up to fix it. It sounded like the knock was coming from the head, seen it jumped timing as well so I bought a brand spankin new head for $340 from aluminumcylinderhead.com .
After camping in a tent in a field for 5 days, I finally got the head replaced. Started the car and still had a knock. I knew I should have pulled the pan first! Well last week I began the work again but the car is down here at my gf's parents in her yard.
Pulled the transfer case, axles, blah blah blah and took off the pan. Sure enough I found that my rod bearing on cylinder 2 had disappeared. Already bought Evo 8 pistons and rods as I planned on a full rebuild.
Since then, the more I took off, the more I found needing replaced. Im talking axles, oil pick up, oil pump, front and rear case, exhaust manifold, knock sensor, hot side, and obviously every last gasket on the car.
The oil pump is gold in color and the gear is hard to turn. So I think that may have caused all of my problems. Maybe. Also found out that the bolt on the back of the block to check for TDC, yeah that bolt is...well not there. Idk why. Just bought this car last November.
This has been so expensive and has been causing countless problems in life. Work, only one vehicle for my fiance and I (which has no insurance and is not registered because we literally don't have the money so yea), my daughter lives 3 hours from me, just a whole list of stuff and I am getting tired of it.
Anyway, aside from needing to vent a little, I would like some tips and suggestions for my engine build. I am basically waiting on parts and I can start putting it back together. I think I need to get my block checked. I was going to hone it myself but I think it might be best to get it looked at. Or no? What would you do? I don't know much about machine work nor how much I am looking at for getting work done.
Anything I could do to make this any bit easier? Here are some pics during the work. My gf was just as greasy as I was. See, I met her because I bought the POS car off of her. Now we are engaged
This damn car has been a HUGE PITA! Heres the story, the car is my DD, had 163K and when I was up north visiting family and picking up my daughter from the crazy ex gf, my engine decided to take a dump. Left the car at my dads for a bit then made the trip up to fix it. It sounded like the knock was coming from the head, seen it jumped timing as well so I bought a brand spankin new head for $340 from aluminumcylinderhead.com .
After camping in a tent in a field for 5 days, I finally got the head replaced. Started the car and still had a knock. I knew I should have pulled the pan first! Well last week I began the work again but the car is down here at my gf's parents in her yard.
Pulled the transfer case, axles, blah blah blah and took off the pan. Sure enough I found that my rod bearing on cylinder 2 had disappeared. Already bought Evo 8 pistons and rods as I planned on a full rebuild.
Since then, the more I took off, the more I found needing replaced. Im talking axles, oil pick up, oil pump, front and rear case, exhaust manifold, knock sensor, hot side, and obviously every last gasket on the car.
The oil pump is gold in color and the gear is hard to turn. So I think that may have caused all of my problems. Maybe. Also found out that the bolt on the back of the block to check for TDC, yeah that bolt is...well not there. Idk why. Just bought this car last November.
This has been so expensive and has been causing countless problems in life. Work, only one vehicle for my fiance and I (which has no insurance and is not registered because we literally don't have the money so yea), my daughter lives 3 hours from me, just a whole list of stuff and I am getting tired of it.
Anyway, aside from needing to vent a little, I would like some tips and suggestions for my engine build. I am basically waiting on parts and I can start putting it back together. I think I need to get my block checked. I was going to hone it myself but I think it might be best to get it looked at. Or no? What would you do? I don't know much about machine work nor how much I am looking at for getting work done.
Anything I could do to make this any bit easier? Here are some pics during the work. My gf was just as greasy as I was. See, I met her because I bought the POS car off of her. Now we are engaged
I have decided to pick up a short block in excellent condition. A complete short block. All I need to do is clean it up a bit, paint it, remove the stock internals and put my Evo 8 rods and pistons in, then slap my head on it. It is going to cost me $375 shipped.
I am not using a MLS head gasket for just the reason you mentioned- Id have to get the block decked. I don't have the money to do the things I wish I could. Or the time. The car NEEDS to be done before my daughters 2nd birthday which is October 1st.
I have been getting a lot of help from the DSM world. A few people are donating free parts for my build. A couple of guys right off hand are Joshua Crooks and Paul Volk. So I would like to thank them for their help.
Once I get the block, I might buy a used water pump with only 5K on it for $35. If not, I will just use the water pump that was on my current engine. It only has about 8K on it. It will be a pretty straight forward build from here on out. I will keep you all updated.
I am not using a MLS head gasket for just the reason you mentioned- Id have to get the block decked. I don't have the money to do the things I wish I could. Or the time. The car NEEDS to be done before my daughters 2nd birthday which is October 1st.
I have been getting a lot of help from the DSM world. A few people are donating free parts for my build. A couple of guys right off hand are Joshua Crooks and Paul Volk. So I would like to thank them for their help.
Once I get the block, I might buy a used water pump with only 5K on it for $35. If not, I will just use the water pump that was on my current engine. It only has about 8K on it. It will be a pretty straight forward build from here on out. I will keep you all updated.
Depends on when the new short block comes. It is coming from Arizona so may take a bit. But it is on its way! I can't wait. Once I get the short block, I am going to tear it down, replace all the gaskets, put my evo 8 pistons and rods in, then put her all together. I still need a lot of parts but most of the parts I need are things like axles and drivetrain stuff.
My plan is to put the engine together first. Buy parts periodically rather than all at once since it would be quicker since money is quite an issue. But, put the engine in, hook everything up and turn it over. I need axles to drive the car, but not for the engine to run =P
I still need: (marked in red)
Stock 1G 7 Bolt Head $340
Stock 7 Bolt Head Bolts $40
Head Gasket Kit $101
Timing Belt Kit $145.92
Jay Racing Timing Belt Tool Kit $60.00
Oil Filter
Oil
Evo 8 Pistons and Rods 100.00
Stainless Steel Valve Cover Bolts FREE
Dipstick FREE
Driver side Axle
Passenger side Axle
Main Bearings
Rod Bearings $30
O2 Housing
Exhaust Manifold
Turbo Hot Side FREE
Short Block $375
Transmission Filter
Torque Convertor Seal
Paint- Purple
Paint- Primer
Paint- Silver
Anti- seize $8
Carburetor Cleaner
Downpipe Bolts/nuts
Vacuume Cap Plugs
Knock Sensor
Fuel Filter to Rail Line
Engine Gasket Kit
I already bought my rod bearings. I will be using the main bearings and everything in the new short block as they are in great shape.
When I opened the box with the rod bearings, there were 5 Extreme PSI decals, and an Extreme PSI license plate bracket. I did order one sticker from them but they gave me more than I expected. I just want to take time out during this post and say Extreme PSI is by far the best DSM parts vendor I have ever dealt with. I go to them before anyone else and I highly recommend doing business with them.
My plan is to put the engine together first. Buy parts periodically rather than all at once since it would be quicker since money is quite an issue. But, put the engine in, hook everything up and turn it over. I need axles to drive the car, but not for the engine to run =P
I still need: (marked in red)
Stock 1G 7 Bolt Head $340
Stock 7 Bolt Head Bolts $40
Head Gasket Kit $101
Timing Belt Kit $145.92
Jay Racing Timing Belt Tool Kit $60.00
Oil Filter
Oil
Evo 8 Pistons and Rods 100.00
Stainless Steel Valve Cover Bolts FREE
Dipstick FREE
Driver side Axle
Passenger side Axle
Main Bearings
Rod Bearings $30
O2 Housing
Exhaust Manifold
Turbo Hot Side FREE
Short Block $375
Transmission Filter
Torque Convertor Seal
Paint- Purple
Paint- Primer
Paint- Silver
Anti- seize $8
Carburetor Cleaner
Downpipe Bolts/nuts
Vacuume Cap Plugs
Knock Sensor
Fuel Filter to Rail Line
Engine Gasket Kit
I already bought my rod bearings. I will be using the main bearings and everything in the new short block as they are in great shape.
When I opened the box with the rod bearings, there were 5 Extreme PSI decals, and an Extreme PSI license plate bracket. I did order one sticker from them but they gave me more than I expected. I just want to take time out during this post and say Extreme PSI is by far the best DSM parts vendor I have ever dealt with. I go to them before anyone else and I highly recommend doing business with them.
FINALLY the engine is on its way to PA. It is coming all the way from Arizona. They said it would take 5 days. It was shipped out on Monday, so I am guessing Saturday or Monday it will be here. Yesterday, I went over and cleaning and painted some things like the tranny (was a pain in the fucking ass! So dirty!), intake manifold, coolant crossover pipe, and a couple other things.
I brought some transmission parts home with me to paint. Such as the dipstick tube, tranny mounts, and tranny fluid pan. Cleaned them, sanded them, then painted them with black engine paint. Once I get back over to the car, I will install them and snap some more pics.
This week, I want to lower most of the stuff bolted onto the firewall. That way they will be less noticeable when the engine is in and hopefully look a little bit cleaner.
I also received a few parts from a buddy in Florida. He is an amazing kid and was willing to help a fellow DSMer out. His name, Joshua Crooks. He sent me an aftermarket tubular header, type RS BOV (knock off, not the Greddy), and a 2G O2 Housing.
I will using a block off plate for the header as it designed for an external wastegate. I don't plan on upgrading the turbo yet, so a block off plate will be used.
Here are some pics.
I brought some transmission parts home with me to paint. Such as the dipstick tube, tranny mounts, and tranny fluid pan. Cleaned them, sanded them, then painted them with black engine paint. Once I get back over to the car, I will install them and snap some more pics.
This week, I want to lower most of the stuff bolted onto the firewall. That way they will be less noticeable when the engine is in and hopefully look a little bit cleaner.
I also received a few parts from a buddy in Florida. He is an amazing kid and was willing to help a fellow DSMer out. His name, Joshua Crooks. He sent me an aftermarket tubular header, type RS BOV (knock off, not the Greddy), and a 2G O2 Housing.
I will using a block off plate for the header as it designed for an external wastegate. I don't plan on upgrading the turbo yet, so a block off plate will be used.
Here are some pics.
10-21-11
The short block arrived on the 19th! Earlier this week, I took everything out of the engine bay and painted the bay. Then relocated some things along with removing some other things. It is looking good, BUT no spoiler pics! Thus, you will have to wait until the engine is in for pics!
I still have to buy axles, knock sensor, and a few other things. Luckily, a friend is selling me a driver side axle, knock sensor, 450cc injectors, and a fuel line for $100!
I will have to go to the junk yard for the passenger side axle, EGR block off plate, and what ever other goodies I can pull off.
Yesterday, I went to look at a couple yards. Had limited time since it was almost closing time. First junk yard, there was a 2G turbo. Engine was basically all there minus the injectors. It had the stock T-25 turbo.
Second yard I went to, I had 5 minutes to look. Over 10 1G's there and at least a half a dozen 2G's. There was a 91 TSI COMPLETE! 5 speed. No injectors though it had the 14B! Didn't have time to see if it was AWD or not but if it is, I am going to get some parts off of it when I go back!
Tomorrow morning (as long as it doesn't rain), I will start assembling the engine! Pics to come during engine build progress!
The short block arrived on the 19th! Earlier this week, I took everything out of the engine bay and painted the bay. Then relocated some things along with removing some other things. It is looking good, BUT no spoiler pics! Thus, you will have to wait until the engine is in for pics!
I still have to buy axles, knock sensor, and a few other things. Luckily, a friend is selling me a driver side axle, knock sensor, 450cc injectors, and a fuel line for $100!
I will have to go to the junk yard for the passenger side axle, EGR block off plate, and what ever other goodies I can pull off.
Yesterday, I went to look at a couple yards. Had limited time since it was almost closing time. First junk yard, there was a 2G turbo. Engine was basically all there minus the injectors. It had the stock T-25 turbo.
Second yard I went to, I had 5 minutes to look. Over 10 1G's there and at least a half a dozen 2G's. There was a 91 TSI COMPLETE! 5 speed. No injectors though it had the 14B! Didn't have time to see if it was AWD or not but if it is, I am going to get some parts off of it when I go back!
Tomorrow morning (as long as it doesn't rain), I will start assembling the engine! Pics to come during engine build progress!
I tore into it today. Turns out, it is a NA block. So after a shit ton of research and talking with other tuners, I got some answers for most of my questions.
First thing I noticed was that I didn't have oil squirters in the new engine. Eventually I realized it was an NA block. This causes several problems.
The purpose of oil squirters is to allow oil to flow to the crown of the piston so it keeps the temps of the piston down. You almost have no choice but to use oil squirters with OEM cast iron pistons. Forged pistons are a different story as they transfer heat A LOT better than OEM cast iron pistons.
People with forged pistons, sometimes ditch the oil squirters so they do not have to worry about the squirters getting clogged up, thus starving the engine of oil which will lead to toasted bearings and/or crankwalk.
So I am still using this NA block. I will need to figure something out with the knock sensor hole but she's gunna get there.
All NA engines DO NOT have oil squirters. Using OEM cast iron pistons in an NA block with a turbo, could cause problems with your pistons. I lucked out since I have my evo 8 pistons and rods with are forged from the factory. I should be fine. I am using this NA block with no oil squirters. If I had OEM cast iron pistons, no chance in hell.
A lot of guys doing what you are doing, don't add the squirters. It will work, but over time, the pistons will take a beating.
Here are some pics....
My other turbo block.
Turbo pistons on the left. NA on the right.
First thing I noticed was that I didn't have oil squirters in the new engine. Eventually I realized it was an NA block. This causes several problems.
The purpose of oil squirters is to allow oil to flow to the crown of the piston so it keeps the temps of the piston down. You almost have no choice but to use oil squirters with OEM cast iron pistons. Forged pistons are a different story as they transfer heat A LOT better than OEM cast iron pistons.
People with forged pistons, sometimes ditch the oil squirters so they do not have to worry about the squirters getting clogged up, thus starving the engine of oil which will lead to toasted bearings and/or crankwalk.
So I am still using this NA block. I will need to figure something out with the knock sensor hole but she's gunna get there.
All NA engines DO NOT have oil squirters. Using OEM cast iron pistons in an NA block with a turbo, could cause problems with your pistons. I lucked out since I have my evo 8 pistons and rods with are forged from the factory. I should be fine. I am using this NA block with no oil squirters. If I had OEM cast iron pistons, no chance in hell.
A lot of guys doing what you are doing, don't add the squirters. It will work, but over time, the pistons will take a beating.
Here are some pics....
My other turbo block.
Turbo pistons on the left. NA on the right.
Well, I have done much thinking today. I am going to set up a claim on PayPal to get my money back. I just really hate the idea of having a NA block and no oil squirters. I feel really bad for the seller because he is a great guy, but me being a softy isn't going to get my car running soon at all.
So, contacting PayPal tomorrow and going from there. The way I see it, I should get $275 of the $375 back. $275 was for the block, and the other $100 was for shipping. I shouldn't be responsible for shipping as I received something that was different than listed.
I will keep everyone updated. I just want this night mare over with.
So, contacting PayPal tomorrow and going from there. The way I see it, I should get $275 of the $375 back. $275 was for the block, and the other $100 was for shipping. I shouldn't be responsible for shipping as I received something that was different than listed.
I will keep everyone updated. I just want this night mare over with.
Well, I have done much thinking today. I am going to set up a claim on PayPal to get my money back. I just really hate the idea of having a NA block and no oil squirters. I feel really bad for the seller because he is a great guy, but me being a softy isn't going to get my car running soon at all.
So, contacting PayPal tomorrow and going from there. The way I see it, I should get $275 of the $375 back. $275 was for the block, and the other $100 was for shipping. I shouldn't be responsible for shipping as I received something that was different than listed.
I will keep everyone updated. I just want this night mare over with.
So, contacting PayPal tomorrow and going from there. The way I see it, I should get $275 of the $375 back. $275 was for the block, and the other $100 was for shipping. I shouldn't be responsible for shipping as I received something that was different than listed.
I will keep everyone updated. I just want this night mare over with.
10-29-11
Well, I accepted to keep the NA block with the refund of $150. But, I will be snagging a rebuilt 6 bolt off of a buddy for cheap. Can't wait!
Well, I accepted to keep the NA block with the refund of $150. But, I will be snagging a rebuilt 6 bolt off of a buddy for cheap. Can't wait!
11-15-11
Alright, I did some more work to the tsi yesterday. Most importantly, we mic'ed out the block and crank. Everything checked out almost perfect exept the cylinder 2 journal on the crank but it was still within service limit of the specs. So the block and crank are good to go.
Another huge relief was the hub assembly. We took it to my gfs uncles place. He put it on the lathe and was able to cut the axle nut off of the hub. Axle is out and the hub assembly is good to go.
I also cleaned and painted the 1g bov, upper water neck, and oil filter housing with the chrome paint I used on the intake and tranny.
I made huge progress yesterday. I have pics so ill try to find a way to upload them via my phone.
Alright, I did some more work to the tsi yesterday. Most importantly, we mic'ed out the block and crank. Everything checked out almost perfect exept the cylinder 2 journal on the crank but it was still within service limit of the specs. So the block and crank are good to go.
Another huge relief was the hub assembly. We took it to my gfs uncles place. He put it on the lathe and was able to cut the axle nut off of the hub. Axle is out and the hub assembly is good to go.
I also cleaned and painted the 1g bov, upper water neck, and oil filter housing with the chrome paint I used on the intake and tranny.
I made huge progress yesterday. I have pics so ill try to find a way to upload them via my phone.
Alright so a lot of shit has changed. Got all my bearings and gaskets and started to rebuild my block. The thrust bearing would not fit the center of my girdle. Gurdles cannot be used on any motor other than the one it came with from the factory unless you have it machined to fit (line hone).
So in desperation to get the car done by xmas to see my daughter, chris gave me his 2g 7 bolt short block to use. It was pulled in running condition with 115k on it. The block and internals were in near perfect shape. Minus the crank, so we used the one we planned on using in my block.
Tonight, we assembled the block with new bearings after cleaning everything up. We used the oem pistons and rods. Tomorrow and later this week, we will clean the outside of the block and prep for paint. Im spraying it with regular custom paint with a paint gun. My gf had the paint mixed to an amazing purple paint.
Then we will clean and paint all the other parts and put all new gaskets on.
So in desperation to get the car done by xmas to see my daughter, chris gave me his 2g 7 bolt short block to use. It was pulled in running condition with 115k on it. The block and internals were in near perfect shape. Minus the crank, so we used the one we planned on using in my block.
Tonight, we assembled the block with new bearings after cleaning everything up. We used the oem pistons and rods. Tomorrow and later this week, we will clean the outside of the block and prep for paint. Im spraying it with regular custom paint with a paint gun. My gf had the paint mixed to an amazing purple paint.
Then we will clean and paint all the other parts and put all new gaskets on.
We are also going to custom fab a dog bone for the roll stop mount since the 2g block will not fit to the 1g roll stop. I think it will turn out well.
Well after the car is running, i will be building another block with my evo 8 pistons and rods that ive been so eager to use. Not sure if i want to get my 1g block line honed to fit another girdle or buy a 6 bolt and do a 6 bolt swap. Which would still require machine work in order to put my evo 8 pistons with 6 bolt rods. I think that would be a bulletproof setup.
I will keep the updates coming! Also a HUGE thanks to Chris and his father in law, Rich!
Well after the car is running, i will be building another block with my evo 8 pistons and rods that ive been so eager to use. Not sure if i want to get my 1g block line honed to fit another girdle or buy a 6 bolt and do a 6 bolt swap. Which would still require machine work in order to put my evo 8 pistons with 6 bolt rods. I think that would be a bulletproof setup.
I will keep the updates coming! Also a HUGE thanks to Chris and his father in law, Rich!
12-24-11
Lots of updates. We dropped the engine in the engine bay and started planning on the safest way to bolt the 2g block in a 1g dsm as custom mounts were required.
We decided to use 1/4" steel to make the roll stop. Chris's father in law, Rich, did all the fabrication.
We also had to modify the driver side motor mount. It needed to be cut in half, a 1" x 1" steel tube inserted between the now two pieces of the driver side mount, extended the mount a half in longer, then welded it together.
The reason this needed to be modified was because the holes on this mount did not linee up with the bolt holes in the timing tensioner bracket that is used also to bolt the driver side mount in.
We used two of the bell housing bolt holes for our completely custom roll stop mount and were able to keep the mount bushing on the cross member. Pics will better demonstrate this.
Started the car last night. Ran alright despite all my vacuum leaks. Starter ended up shitting on me and had to fix a fuel line. Although need to replace the oring on the coolant pipe that goes into the water pump. Also, had a belt squealed like a mofo. Think it was the alternator belt. But, she runs!
Lots of updates. We dropped the engine in the engine bay and started planning on the safest way to bolt the 2g block in a 1g dsm as custom mounts were required.
We decided to use 1/4" steel to make the roll stop. Chris's father in law, Rich, did all the fabrication.
We also had to modify the driver side motor mount. It needed to be cut in half, a 1" x 1" steel tube inserted between the now two pieces of the driver side mount, extended the mount a half in longer, then welded it together.
The reason this needed to be modified was because the holes on this mount did not linee up with the bolt holes in the timing tensioner bracket that is used also to bolt the driver side mount in.
We used two of the bell housing bolt holes for our completely custom roll stop mount and were able to keep the mount bushing on the cross member. Pics will better demonstrate this.
Started the car last night. Ran alright despite all my vacuum leaks. Starter ended up shitting on me and had to fix a fuel line. Although need to replace the oring on the coolant pipe that goes into the water pump. Also, had a belt squealed like a mofo. Think it was the alternator belt. But, she runs!
Some of you know what has been goin on with my tsi and i. Instead of talking to everyone individually, i will make this public. About a month ago, i had fuel issues with the car. I had way too much fuel and the plugs would foul out. The mas turned out to be bad. So i wired up a 2g maf. Fuel problem fixed. Fuel problem was fixed but had some other issues with the alternator and a tranny fluid leak. Fixed the tranny leak the next day and then this maf took a shit.
So i was back to the same fuel issue. Then the turbo blew. This was the second turbo within a week.
Well not long after this, my gf and i got into a fight so i left and moved to my mothers 2 hours away. The car still being in my friends garage.
One day my friend woke up (cris) and decided he wasnt my friend anymore and said he was pulling my engine that i built in my talon. He gave me the block and said i could have it. So i bought all the gaskets, bearings, etc. and built it. I spent a lot of money on it.
Long story short, i was forced to give it to my ex gf who is best friends with his wife. Otherwise the car and all of my parts and tools were going to be towed to the impound.
Now i am comepletely dsmless. There is much more to the story to come in which i cannot post publicly.
So i was back to the same fuel issue. Then the turbo blew. This was the second turbo within a week.
Well not long after this, my gf and i got into a fight so i left and moved to my mothers 2 hours away. The car still being in my friends garage.
One day my friend woke up (cris) and decided he wasnt my friend anymore and said he was pulling my engine that i built in my talon. He gave me the block and said i could have it. So i bought all the gaskets, bearings, etc. and built it. I spent a lot of money on it.
Long story short, i was forced to give it to my ex gf who is best friends with his wife. Otherwise the car and all of my parts and tools were going to be towed to the impound.
Now i am comepletely dsmless. There is much more to the story to come in which i cannot post publicly.
Its cool man you will recover. Get yourself a DD and then you can find and build your next monster! If moneys good by then you going to the shootout? I got a good shot at getting a position at work that would pay way more so I might have my motor built (minus turbo) before the shootout and I would take my car the 2000 miles (one way) to support the ESD crowd... if there is one
Ill deffinately be down for a meet. And you will get there man. Its shitty but you will get another car. And you will be proud of it again. Shit happens and always will. Ill be down sunday you gotta let me know what time is good. And you can get your "DSM Fix" by helping me fix my POS lol.
You know what i need? A fund raiser for myself! Haha. I will have a dsm come shootout time. Idc if i have to rob a bank. Theres no way im not havin a dsm by then. Even if it is a 420a.
fourgsixthree33a wrote:You know what i need? A fund raiser for myself! Haha. I will have a dsm come shootout time. Idc if i have to rob a bank. Theres no way im not havin a dsm by then. Even if it is a 420a.
Hey! Laugh at me all you want but I would have got your ride running a week after it broke down! Especially since a quick trip to the junk yard to pull a block out of a neon would have been a lot easier than finding a turbo 6-bolt block.
Lol you will get urself a nice 4G63 lol. Dont mess wit them 420a junks. Lol No offense to anyone with them I just cant stand the fact that they actually used a Neon block. Neons suck. Lol. My brother has a 420A and I absolutely hate it. I must admit is got some snot to it tho.
Would have possibly considered it if a 420a could fit in a 1g without spending an arm and leg on fabrication and a lot of rewiring lol. Almost considered deturboing it for the time being.
Say what you want about the neon block... at least those cranks don't walk! Haha jk. BTW my block wont be neon based for long. 2.4l EDZ WOOT WOOT.
I am jealous of anyone with any type of DSM right now....out of all people, I'm the one without a DSM lol.
Yup, gonna have to bust you down from admin to poser... DSM law sorry buddy
Shake_Zulla wrote:Yup, gonna have to bust you down from admin to poser... DSM law sorry buddy
LMAO thats messed up!
I see how it is.
rock on man, looks like your getting under way pretty good!......And then I put foot in mouth, didn't realize there was more than one page lol.
If my dsm Does not start next wed, you may get one faster than you think lol. Man thats a horrible situation to be in, I've dealt with something like that myself in the past. I am sure you will turn it around and get another one, and you got alot of friends on this community that I am sure will throw you parts etc, Hell if you get a 420a, Ill ship ya some! yes come to the dark sideeeeeee (evil laugh ensues)
Lol thanks man. I like that, the "dark side". Haha.
Lol dark side of the DSM world is 420a..... absolutely awesome.
Fri Oct 30, 2015 9:31 pm by AJracer33a
» Project Onyx
Wed Oct 21, 2015 8:46 pm by Onyx
» Hey Guys
Wed Oct 21, 2015 8:25 pm by Onyx
» WOT Tuning Basics
Mon Oct 19, 2015 12:08 pm by AJracer33a
» new to the forum/me member on fb
Sat Oct 10, 2015 12:52 pm by AJracer33a
» DSM beginner
Sat Oct 10, 2015 12:51 pm by AJracer33a
» 4G37 Timing Belt Install Gone Wrong
Fri Feb 13, 2015 2:02 am by SafetyAl
» '93 7 Bolt 4G63T
Sat Jan 31, 2015 9:04 pm by crazyccustoms666
» My DSM History
Wed Jan 28, 2015 10:25 pm by pointblank9957