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Most users ever online was 31 on Mon Feb 27, 2012 6:49 pm

    My 2g awd build

    Proven Member
    Proven Member

    Car : 97 gsx auto(temporarialy)
    Posts : 82
    Reputation : 4
    Join date : 2012-12-11
    Location : Oglesby IL

    2G My 2g awd build

    Post by 95weclipse

    Hello every one, I am Don I am new to the site and would like to post my 2g awd build here, right now my gsx is mostly stock, I bought it bone stock other than rims, tail lights, head lights and exhaust other than that she was completely unmolested, even the stock air box lol, well I have owned it for 5 months now and the first thing I did was I wanted to put my wide band and boost gauges in well, the boost gauge went fine but went to put the wide band in and accidentally nicked the front o2 wire and couldnt fix it, cut it right at the plug Mad well luckily I had a 2g computer with link from my last car. Well I got link hooked up and just simulated the aem wide band to run my front o2, thanks to the help of a good friend, next thing I did was blew the t25, Evil or Very Mad great now what am I gonna do, well lucky me being a hoarder, I had a blown 14b so I bought a re build kit, hogged out the exhaust housing and waste gate hole made my own 35 mm flapper lol sand blasted every thing and painted it and put it on, luckily for my last car I kept the j pipe and oil feed, made my own oil return, and I was on the road again, so I got bored out of my mind one weekend so I did the batt relocation to the trunk, complete egr delete and put my afpr on, and a wally 255, and rewired that bad boy. then I bought a used HUICP so I could run my greddy type s bov, I could only build 12 psi with the stock bov lol, so now I am running 21 psi consistently and love every bit of, OH and I for got to mention this is AUTO, for now, well this car has 183k on it and I daily it, WELL the bad news is, the head gasket seeps on the out side, oil that is and a tiny tiny bit of coolant, so I need a motor, lol lucky me again<<<< hoarder, I have a 6 bolt block hahhahahha this is gonna be fun, so heres where it gets real peeps, I am going to run a stock bottom end, mainly cause I daily this and have no reason to BUILD the crap out of it yet lol, lets get started shall we, crank is still sitting at machine shop waiting to be picked up, ran short on money this week, had is micro polished and magnafluxed, so I need to pick that up, stock un cut crank, I got a used set of rods from a friend, with junk 1g pistons tongue , I removed them at work in the press, got luck they came off really really easy, I need to buy pistons yet, I am going to run NPR pistons, I read around and asked a few people if they where ok, every one said they have had and have seen great results with them, I am gonna get the 2g pistons, so I need to drop the rods of at the machine shop to have them machine the little end for the 2g pistons, then I will put the pistons on at work, it'll save me a few bucks any way, then my next step is to drop the block off at the machine shop and have it bored 20 over, deck it till its true what ever that might take off its not too bad theres only 2 spots that I can get a .004 feeler gauge under and they are on the back side of the block, then time for more parts, ARP mains, head studs, and rod bolts, yeah budy, ACL race bearings, felpro graphite head gasket, NPR pistons and prolly the rings that come with, then while I have all of this out, I am trading all my auto stuff for all 5 speed stuff, yay! the only reason I am doing it is cause I daily it, yes I love the auto but, its a pain in the ass as well, there are pros and cons to both but I like the 5 speed more, so while I have that out I am gonna do a wire tuck, so after I got the trans back in, first thing after I down the car I am sending my 14b to turbo lab to have it converted to a TLB20g afro so with that being said I need injectors, I dont have a set size yet but I think I will just go with 1000cc ptes, I liked the 880s I had but with this 20g Ill need a little more playing room, also I plan on going with speed density, I do not plan on self tuning, nor to I want to lol, also with my increase in air flow I ll need a fmic so the first thing that I am buying with my taxes is a Punishment racing fmic, there will be pics along the way but this wont start till mid January so bare with me
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    Post on Sun Dec 16, 2012 6:17 pm by AJracer33a

    Welcome and thanks for the post. Can't wait to see pics once this begins. Are you going to do the BSE?

    Post on Sun Dec 16, 2012 7:01 pm by 95weclipse

    Yeah I am not going to be using the balance shafts

    Post on Sun Dec 16, 2012 8:35 pm by AJracer33a

    Good stuff, man. Can't wait till you get going with this.

    Post on Sun Dec 16, 2012 9:18 pm by 95weclipse

    Thanks, when you getting yours back on the road?

    Post on Mon Dec 17, 2012 12:10 am by AJracer33a

    Soon as the rest of my parts come in as well as a clutch alignment tool I ordered. And when I find enough time after work. No car is killing the paycheck though. I have a job where I kinda go from place to place and do a little commuting.

    Post on Wed Dec 19, 2012 7:35 pm by 95weclipse

    shoulda asked around I have an extra one I would have gave you lol they come with new clutches,.... lol, that sucks man, well just remember to get it done right so you dont have to do it agian

    Post on Wed Dec 19, 2012 9:35 pm by AJracer33a

    I am going to tackle it Monday and Tuesday. I got the clutch alignment tool and my aftermarket oil return line in the mail so I am ready to go.

    Post on Sat Dec 22, 2012 9:38 pm by 95weclipse

    How do I attach pics to this AJ?

    Post on Sat Dec 22, 2012 11:21 pm by AJracer33a

    Ever use photobucket?


    Post on Sat Dec 22, 2012 11:48 pm by 95weclipse

    No I havent but I dont want to make an account to use it though lol

    Post on Mon Dec 24, 2012 9:25 pm by AJracer33a

    Alright, I messed around in the admin panel. Click REPLY and you will see a Browse button. Now you can upload pics. But in order for us to see them, we have to manually open them or save them.

    Post on Fri Jan 04, 2013 11:56 pm by 95weclipse

    Well heres a small update, I dropped the rods and pistons off at the
    machine shop on Dec 29th 2012 to bored honed and decked, rods to get machined for
    2g pistons and the bottom ends reconditioned when I get the ARPS, no
    pics to post yet other than what I already posted, I need to get pistons
    and the arps first so the machine shop can get the clearances, and the
    arps so they can recon the bottoms, decided to go with a vrsf FMIC and
    rc 1000cc injectors....... more to come! stay TUNED!

    Post on Fri Jan 04, 2013 11:57 pm by 95weclipse

    Well got my arp rod bolts and NPR pistons ordered from BUILT4G63.COM
    yesterday, just need to get bearings and an oil pump and my bottom end
    will be complete, after I get the pistons and rod bolts Ill go to the
    machine shop and talk to him about the block and what not, I would like
    to get the beams of the rods polished and hes going to shave the wrist
    pin end to fit 2g pistons thats why he need the pistons so he can set
    the press fit something or other, did hear what exactly he said, then
    going to see if he can polish up the oil galleys on the front, hes also
    going to recondition the journal end of the rod because the arps are
    different so Ill have a completely fresh block and rotating assembly
    will get pics of every thing when it comes next week

    Post on Sat Jan 05, 2013 12:31 am by AJracer33a

    Awesome man! Can't wait for the pics. How much were the pistons if you don't mind me asking.

    Post on Sat Jan 05, 2013 8:24 pm by 95weclipse

    I STILL HAVENT FIGURED OUT THE PICS HAHAHH lol yeah its fine bro I got the nprs from built4g63 for 117 I think it was

    Post on Sun Jan 06, 2013 12:13 am by 95weclipse


    Post on Sun Jan 06, 2013 12:55 am by AJracer33a

    There you go! Looks very good man.

    You said you were running her at 21PSI. Was this on stock fuel injectors?

    Post on Sun Jan 06, 2013 1:04 am by 95weclipse

    Yeah but a wally 255 and a fuel lab afpr, and ecm link never hit fuel cut in this car but in my gst basically same thing but stock pump and fpr and no ecm link at like 18 psi I was hitting fuel cut

    Post on Sun Jan 06, 2013 3:41 pm by AJracer33a

    Interesting. Never knew the stock injectors would work up to 21psi even with ECMlink, Walbro, and AFPR. I learned something today! lol.

    Post on Sun Jan 06, 2013 11:07 pm by 95weclipse

    today got alot done, got the engine harness pulled, got the drives side knuckle/axle and what not, off.

    Got the bumper and head lights off

    took the down pipe off

    I decided to delete A/C and P/S so I got the P/S pump and reservoir off and all of the lines except the ones from the rack.

    Got the A/C compressor, condenser, and lines off,

    Ran into a few tiny snags, of course why not, just my luck,

    the bolts that hold the cross member on the front the two 17mm bolts
    that go into the radiator core support, are fuuuuuuked that bottom "bar"
    is rusted pretty bad and the "nuts" inside, are spinning, soooooo, I am
    going to "rebuild" it Ill cut it off right before it makes the bend and
    weld some flat stock on the bottoms and weld a bar across the bottom
    and re weld some tabs for the radiator.

    then my next snag, I dont know if any one else has had this problem buuuuuuuuut the two bolts that hold the lateral arm or the rear bottom control arm one on each side broke

    I dont know how I am going to get these out but Ill figure it out when time comes I guess

    more to come!


    Post on Sun Jan 06, 2013 11:31 pm by AJracer33a

    Sorry to hear you had some problems. Take some pics of the broken bolts.

    I deleted pretty much everything that isn't a necessity. A/C, emissions, EGR, FIAV, P/S, etc and I don't regret it a damn bit. So much more room to work with. And it looks a little less cluttered. But I can't stand working on the car with everything on it. Absolutely no room! How many things involves removing the P/S? Alternator, timing belt, pretty much everything involved with the driver side of the engine. Driving with no P/S doesn't bother me a bit. I actually prefer it.

    Post on Mon Jan 07, 2013 7:30 am by 95weclipse

    well you dont have have to pull the alternator just the belt, first youve got the pump, lines, reservoir, and thats pretty much it

    Post on Mon Jan 07, 2013 10:34 am by AJracer33a

    95weclipse wrote:well you dont have have to pull the alternator just the belt, first youve got the pump, lines, reservoir, and thats pretty much it

    I meant if you ever have to replace/remove the alternator, you would first need to remove the P/S pump. It's a hassle removing it all the time just to do other repairs.

    Post on Tue Jan 08, 2013 7:16 pm by 95weclipse

    I got these today!


    Post on Tue Jan 08, 2013 8:52 pm by 93blackeclipse

    Good job. Keep up the work. Cant wait to see it done

    Post on Wed Jan 09, 2013 10:57 pm by 95weclipse

    Here are the NPRs and ARP rod bolts

    Post on Thu Jan 10, 2013 12:00 am by AJracer33a

    More parts! Can't wait till you start assembling the engine.

    Post on Thu Jan 10, 2013 1:19 pm by 95weclipse

    Me either! lol I just got back from the machine shop, I dropped off the pistons and arps, asked if he polishes rod beams, and he does he'll be calling me sometime today with an estiment with to bore, hone, deck, clean, machine the 1g rods for the 2g pistons and re do the bottom ends because you have to re hone them when you put arps in, then to polish the rod beams, he told me the bore, hone and deck will cost 190, then to rebuild the bottom end of the rods will cost 60 and to polish the rod beams could cost any where from 30 to 60 so I am prolly looking at 400 out the door

    Post on Thu Jan 10, 2013 6:28 pm by AJracer33a

    95weclipse wrote:Me either! lol I just got back from the machine shop, I dropped off the pistons and arps, asked if he polishes rod beams, and he does he'll be calling me sometime today with an estiment with to bore, hone, deck, clean, machine the 1g rods for the 2g pistons and re do the bottom ends because you have to re hone them when you put arps in, then to polish the rod beams, he told me the bore, hone and deck will cost 190, then to rebuild the bottom end of the rods will cost 60 and to polish the rod beams could cost any where from 30 to 60 so I am prolly looking at 400 out the door

    This includes the assembly of the short block? Is he doing the top end too?

    Post on Fri Jan 11, 2013 1:00 am by 95weclipse

    No Ill be putting it together, but he called back and itll be 500 out the door, thats to bore hone deck and clean the block, then to recondition the bottom end on the rods, modify the pin end and then hang the pistons on the rods then he'll put them in some sort of jig and make sure the rods are straight and also to polish the rod beams

    Got alot done today, got the motor/trans out, pushed the car out of the garage cleaned up, turned the car around put it back in the garage, jacked the rear end up and got the rear axles out, the two rear bolts on the diff are stuck in the bushings so I have to drop the sub frame, Ill do that tomorrow, I had a pesky lower control arm bolt stuck so I had to drill it out


    Post on Fri Jan 11, 2013 9:12 am by cgantt97gst

    Looks good man, glad too see you got that bolt out. Lol

    Post on Fri Jan 11, 2013 5:47 pm by AJracer33a

    More broken bolts? Damn!

    $500 out the door is pretty good. I never priced machine work or anything. I just always assumed it would be just as expensive as our dirt car engines. Thousands of dollars. But, that was pretty much machining EVERYTHING, buying new aftermarket internals, fully assembled with head work too.

    Post on Fri Jan 11, 2013 6:08 pm by 95weclipse

    yeah the late models out here there motors go for 10k new, new block new head new crank,rods, pistons, balanced perfectly, good rings, n bearings yadayada huge roller cam good roller lifters roller rockers valve girdles good springs heads dont need port work, you work on dirt cars you see where i am going hahhahah my dad rebuilt a limited late model motor for a friend and it spun 9k all night long after we got the car set up right he ran top 5 for his first season on the track ever!

    Post on Fri Jan 11, 2013 6:17 pm by AJracer33a

    Yea it gets very expensive. We backed out of the late models because it got way to expensive and local tracks stopped running them. So we got into the IMCA Modifieds. They have a claim rule so that helps out on the amount of money that goes into our engines.

    Other guys still spent almost $10K but then someone claims their engine. $525 claim rule. So you buy a $10K motor for $525. Because of the rule, we tend to not spend a whole lot of money on the engine lol.

    Post on Fri Jan 11, 2013 7:36 pm by 95weclipse

    good! lol

    Post on Sun Jan 13, 2013 10:30 pm by 95weclipse

    bought theses today from a friend on face book for 115 shipped ! been torqued once!

    Post on Sun Jan 13, 2013 11:18 pm by AJracer33a

    Awesome. I need some ARP's. Every time my head was off, I was short on cash and needed the car done ASAP. So I just ran down to the part store and picked up head bolts.

    Soon....ARP's are coming.

    Post on Mon Jan 14, 2013 8:09 am by 95weclipse

    just ask around on facebook thats what I did and got theses cheap

    Post on Mon Jan 14, 2013 12:15 pm by AJracer33a

    So what else are you looking to buy for her?

    Any plans for some more bolt ons?

    Post on Mon Jan 14, 2013 7:32 pm by 95weclipse

    I want a vrsf front mount, have my 14b converted to a 20g and some rc 1000cc injectors and a catch can

    Post on Wed Jan 16, 2013 12:09 am by 95weclipse

    AHHHHH what a week! buddy called and asked if I could put a starter in his 91 awd talon, I said yeah sure! so I go there pull the starter and for some reason or another I decided to put my hand in the bell housing just to check the ring gear and sure enough the ring gear was spinning around the fly wheel, so we push started it and I drove it home pulled the trans and it had a fidinza alum fly wheel, so I sold him my 6 bolt fly wheel and put it in for him and so I am going to try and fix it so I got a 200$ flywheel for free plus he payed me 200 bucks for the fly wheel, put it in and I changed the rear main while I was there, then today I worked on my dsm for a bit, took the flex plate off the motor, took the pilot bushing out the crank, bagged the rear diff and t case, got the engine harness, shifter base, axles, starter brake pedal assembly all in one box so every thing is ready for the trade! Hopefully going to wisconsin saturday to do the trade!, I will be starting my wire tuck on the chassis harness soon maybe tomorrow!

    Post on Wed Jan 16, 2013 11:58 am by AJracer33a

    Awesome! Nice to see you made some money in the process of helping out your friend.

    Wire tucks are always fun haha

    Post on Sat Jan 19, 2013 9:27 pm by 95weclipse

    I got my arps thursday? I think it was, look almost new, also ordered my acl bearings from built4g63 should get them monday or tuesday! not going to wisconsin this weekend it looks like to get my 5speed parts

    Post on Sun Jan 20, 2013 3:02 pm by AJracer33a

    When do you think you are going to get the 5 Speed stuff?

    Post on Sat Jan 26, 2013 6:23 pm by 92tsifwd

    Sexy sexy 2g!

    Post on Mon Jan 28, 2013 8:38 pm by 95weclipse

    thanks 92tsi, I dont know aj I might be buying my buddys 95 awd talon for my GF its a 5 speed so I might be swapping stuff putting the auto in that and taking the 5 speed stuff and putting it in my car lol, put my motor from my car in it and Id have to find a turbo and a cheap FMIC or put my side mount on
    and fix a few things

    Post on Mon Jan 28, 2013 10:57 pm by AJracer33a

    You should just swap shells man. Unless you have that special bond with your car as most of us do. But it would be easier for sure.

    Post on Wed Jan 30, 2013 9:06 pm by 95weclipse

    hahah no I texted him and asked him how much he wanted and he said he wasnt sure if he wanted to sell it, and If I was to buy it I would rebuild my motor and put it and the auto in it for the girl friend since she likes that kona blue lol I had to drop off the main caps for the block so he could hone it and what not, hes got it bored already looks real good, we talked for a 1/2 hour about it lol and hes going to put the arp mains in and torque them down and check the alignment on them to see if they will need to be align honed hopefully they dont need to be lol, we also talked about the main bolt torque and hes going to call ARP for that, and then we talked about what he wanted the ring gap as, JE calls for .017 for street/turbo use so I think we will prolly run that unless some one else has more useful info

    Post on Thu Jan 31, 2013 5:05 pm by AJracer33a

    Good stuff. Anxious to get the motor back? Lol.

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