95 Talon TSi

I got the 6 bolt dropped in. First, I had to swap some things from my 7 bolt to the 6 bolt. Clutch, all motor mounts, had to mod the driver side motor mount bracket, etc. I put my aftermarket return line on as well.

The transmission is sitting flush with the block. I had to deal with a bolt hole that was stripped. Or so I thought. I opted to go with a long bolt and put a nut on the other side. It actually didn't feel stripped so it is possible that it was the original bolt itself that was stripped when we had this motor and trans in Kurt's 1G.

i dropped the motor down in my engine bay. Lined everything up and started bolting all the mounts in place. Once I got all the mounts done, I began putting everything else on. IC piping, intake, ran the wiring harness, connected the fuel rail, etc. I only did what was necessary for the engine to run. I didn't want to put the engine 100% only to find out I have to pull it back out because I have a big oil leak somewhere. I left the alternator, cooling system, shift cables, etc. un-done.

I was finally ready to start the car. It cranked and cranked but would not fire. I then tested for spark. No spark. Then, no fuel. Shortly after, I realized the CEL wasn't coming on when putting the key to the ON position. It is supposed to illuminate and then go off after about 5 seconds. This is how the ECU lets you know that it is communicating. If the CEL does not illuminate, your ECU is probably bad.

Another way the ECU lets you know it is communicating properly is the factory boost gauge will rise to halfway when the key is turned to the ON position. My factory boost gauge wasn't moving either. So, I assumed that my ECU was bad. Then a friend told me to check a plug near the trans. He said it is a very large plug and connects the two wiring harnesses together. Sure enough, this was unplugged thus not allowing the ECU to receive any power.

Soon, I am going to make my way back up to the garage and get the car running. Then if there are no leaks, I will proceed to put the axles in and make sure the car will go into gear. If that checks out, everything else will be finished and I will be ready to pull it out of the garage.

Got the car running a few days ago. I literally balled my eyes out when I first started her. For about, 15 mins.

But anyway, I wanted to make sure it ran before connecting misc. things up and putting in the axles. I got it running (with no leaks) so I put the rest of the car together.

Once the axles were in, tranny fluid was in, etc., I started the car and put it in gear. It would not go into gear while the engine was running. I tried several different things including adjusting the clutch master rod and the clutch switch. Still didn't help. SAME THING HAPPENED WHEN THIS MOTOR AND TRANS WAS IN KURTS 1G!

I was so pissed. I bled the system for 5-6 hours. Just to make sure while trying different techniques. Still nothing. Well today, I replaced both the master cylinder and slave cylinder and then bled the system. Went right in gear!

So I buttoned everything up, put the hood and front bumper on, and drove home. But, I can't drive it anymore quite yet.

I have to do a few things.

• Knock Sensor- First, and most importantly, I need a knock sensor. Driving with no knock sensor SUCKS! Rob Fig shipped one out to me this morning. I am hoping it gets here Saturday!
  
• Throttle Body- I also need to swap the throttle body since the one that is on this now leaks very bad at the FIAV block-off plate. So mine will be going on this 6 bolt. I am removing the block-off plate on mine and JB Welding it back on. It leaked a little bit when I had it on the 7 bolt. Though, not nearly as bad as this one leaks. Sounds like a large vacuum and I can hear it over the open o2 housing.
  
• Valve Cover Gasket- Next, replace my valve cover gasket. After driving it, oil leaked out of the VC like a mofo. My timing belt is soaked (i know, not good) and there is a puddle on the inside of the VC where the plugs go.
  
• Temperature Gauge- My aftermarket coolant temp sensor is not working. At some point during the motor swap, I managed to snap the wire that runs from the sending unit to the gauge. I fixed that today, but it still is not working. I need to remove the A-Pillar gauge pod and see if I can trace another bad wire. It is possible another wire snapped.
  
• Turbo to Manifold Bolt- On the drive home, a turbo to manifold bolt managed to pop loose. So that needs to be tightened.
  

There are several other odds and ends I need to attend to. I am definitely going to have to clean the hell out of the engine bay. So many greasy finger prints. So much oil. Looks horrible!

Here are some vids and pics!

JB Welded the FIAV block-off plate onto my 1G throttle body. I am going to let it sit over night and swap it onto the car tomorrow.

Today, I fixed a few of the things I wanted to fix.

• Valve Cover Gasket- Removed the VC and to my surprise, I noticed my spark plug seals were gone! I went to the garage to get some and they were on my 7 bolt head. I didn't notice that they stuck to the 7 bolt head when I pulled the VC from it. So, I put them in and RTV'ed the gasket and put the VC back on.
  
• Throttle Body- Swapped the TB out. Shouldn't be leaking anymore.
  
• Knock Sensor- My knock sensor came in the mail today! I removed the old broken one and put the new one in.
  

I took it for a drive. It was cutting out pretty bad at higher boost. Probably still have some boost leaks somewhere. I took the MBC off and now I am running off of wastegate pressure. No more cutting out, but 10PSI is slow!



I still have an oil leak though I actually think it is coming from a auto timing belt tensioner or maybe the front case is cracked. I couldn't tell though because their is oil EVERYWHERE. I took the car to the car wash and sprayed the timing belt side of the engine. The top is very clean, but I couldn't get certain areas down low.



Tomorrow, I am going to remove the harmonic damper, clean everything very well with purple power and a rag, then run the engine while looking for leaks. I should be able to see where it is coming from with the damper off.



More pics/vids!

I removed the harmonic damper today and then cleaned the front case free of oil and grime. Then I started the car and quickly seen where it was leaking from.

It was indeed leaking from the snapped auto tensioner bolt.

Pulled the auto tensioner off. Here is a video of the snapped bolt.

I was able to remove the remaining part of the snapped bolt without pulling the front case! I used left handed drill bits. The bolt now threads all the way in with no problems.

Tomorrow, I am going to go and pick up some locktite and use it on these bolts. Then put the timing belt back on and see if the leak is fixed.

She's done! I put the timing belt on today and checked for leaks. No leaks, so I put the harmonic damper, alternator belt, and engine mount back on. Then took it up the road a couple times. Still no leaks. Then I went to town. STILL no leaks!

Going to bowling tonight and I am going to drive my car. Then if it is all good still, I am going to drive the car to work tomorrow.

Pics.

Glad too see you got her running againg AJ. Hope it stays that way.

Thanks and so do I. Have to do a BLT though soon. It's running kinda crappy. She ain't pulling like she used to.

Keep in mind AJ you have lower compression now!

True. How exactly will this affect everything? (i.e. performance)

eh I am not sure .5ft pd of torque I am not sure man I haven't actually seen or driven with a 6 bolt

Alright. I think I found out my issue. Which is something I have over-looked.

After I did the BSE install and FIAV delete on the 7 bolt, I had some weird problems with my TPS. The throttle would randomly rise on it's only, once almost to redline. So, I unplugged it so I could get to where I needed to be. It drove fine without it plugged in so I left it as is.

I plugged it back in today. The engine surged like hell and I literally could NOT drive it. So I unplugged it again and went home. I swapped the TPS out with a known good one and then took it for a drive. Much better. It runs very smooth now. Unfortunately, I cannot turn up the boost to see if it runs smooth in higher boost since I lost the bolt for my MBC during a pull the other day. I left the bolt finger tight since I was doing multiple pulls and adjusting the MBC.

I also did a BLT tonight. I think this was the first time ever that I did a BLT and didn't have ANY boost leaks (except for right after I fix them of course). Usually every time I do a BLT, I find a new leak.

THATS HOW IT WORKS lol I had a ton of leaks, but I just found out my build will take longer than expected cause of this wonderful nation we live in, put my taxes in on HandR block and turbo tax found out I am only getting 575$ which I was hoping for 3700

95weclipse wrote:THATS HOW IT WORKS lol I had a ton of leaks, but I just found out my build will take longer than expected cause of this wonderful nation we live in, put my taxes in on HandR block and turbo tax found out I am only getting 575$ which I was hoping for 3700

Whatt?? How the hell are you only getting $575? You have kids?

Yeah I got a kid but I cant claim her cause of the divorce the ex gets to claim her, smdh they took out 3500 in fed and I am getting 575? WTF I am a little upset right now, I really needed that money I put my car down saturday

95weclipse wrote:Yeah I got a kid but I cant claim her cause of the divorce the ex gets to claim her, smdh they took out 3500 in fed and I am getting 575? WTF I am a little upset right now, I really needed that money I put my car down saturday

I would try and see what TurboTax does for you or go somewhere else. Something ain't right.

thats both TT and H&R block

95weclipse wrote:thats both TT and H&R block

That's crazy man...

Today, I went to the garage and picked up my 2G fuel rail and FPR. I was going to put them on today, but then found bigger problems.

The tension on my timing belt is very, very loose. I know why. When I did the timing belt last weekend, I didn't adjust the tensioner pulley like I was supposed to.

So tomorrow, I am going to be removing the belt and then reinstalling it. Luckily, I have not jumped time.

https://youtu.be/3lfjsNIWXKU

Tore the timing belt apart today. The fuckin' auto tensioner is junk! This is the 2nd auto tensioner in the last 7 days! I am going to advanced auto, getting my refund, and I have already ordered a new OEM one from extremepsi. The hell with cheap parts store parts!

The OEM tensioner from extremepsi came in the mail last night so I put it on today. It wasn't fun....



But, I got it done. I also swapped fuel rails/FPR's and T'ed into my FPR vacuum line for my boost gauge instead of at the TB.

If your cars covered in snow it's beer drinking time...

More like hot coco. I was freezing! And wet.

dude.... idk wat to say besides thank u man... im pretty sure u saved the lfe of my 6bolt and also solved the most complex problem ive had with a car... that fucking tranny issue was BS we spent contless hours trying to figure that one out... thank u so much man IOU big. now lets get u a 6 bolt!!!

92tsifwd wrote:dude.... idk wat to say besides thank u man... im pretty sure u saved the lfe of my 6bolt and also solved the most complex problem ive had with a car... that fucking tranny issue was BS we spent contless hours trying to figure that one out... thank u so much man IOU big. now lets get u a 6 bolt!!!

Yes. Let's!

Put a new aftermarket temp gauge in since I broke my last one during the engine swap. The wire must have got caught on something when I pulled the 7 bolt. The wire broke and when they break, they are pretty much junk.

When I put the new gauge in, the female adapter that goes into the thermostat housing split when I was tightening the male end on the probe. Bought a new adapter and got that fixed.

The new gauge is too big to fit into my gauge pod so I am going to cut a hole where the cigarette lighter is and stick it in there.

UPDATE:

More problems. Last week about an 1/8 mile from my work, I downshifted and couldn't get the car in gear. When I let the clutch out, the clutch stuck at the halfway point. I eventually got it in gear with some effort and pulled into my work. Once I was stopped, I tried getting it into first gear and no luck.

So after work I called Advance Auto. They had a slave cylinder but not a master. So I walked my ass all the way to the parts store, walked back, put the new slave in, bled the system, no luck.

The next day, I swapped the master. Clutch pedal felt great. No air coming out of the bleeder when I bled it. Still wouldn't go in gear. If I put the car in gear, push the clutch in, then start the car, then car moved as if I didn't even have the clutch pushed in.

So I looked up inside the fork hole. Noticed that my fork is sitting more towards the passenger side of the car instead of the driver side like it should be. Then I seen that the fork was making contact with the bell housing.

I adjusted the master cylinder rod in, out, and everywhere in between with no change. So I pulled the trans, used a different fork, pivot ball, shimmed the pivot ball, and got a new throw out bearing. Put it all back together.

Now the fork is sitting towards the driver side of the hole and the slave cylinder isn't pushing the fork far enough to the passenger side. So tomorrow I am calling STM and purchasing an OEM master cylinder and an extended slave cylinder rod. Hopefully these take care of my problem. Such a nightmare.

Tuesday, we had some nice weather. I am waiting on an OEM clutch master cylinder to come in the mail so I decided to remove all the seats from the car and vacuum it out. My battery has been dead recently. I thought it was just from having the hatch and doors open all day when working on the car.

So I put the drivers seat in and went to charge the battery so I could operate the power seat to move it back and forth so I could bolt the seat in. I put the battery charger on the battery and then a few seconds later there was a loud and fast clicking coming from under the radio.

If I turned the key ON, the clicking stopped. If I unplugged the ECU, the clicking stopped. If I charge the battery with the terminals off, there is no clicking.

Then I noticed that with my key OFF, the oil dummy light would be on. If I turn the key ON, all the other lights come up momentarily and the oil dummy light goes off the instant I turn the key ON.

ound out what the clicking noise was. It was the following relay. It was just laying under the radio grounding out on the frame of the dash. I found it, took a picture, then removed the passenger side kick panel.

Oh...it's the MPI relay? How? I just started my car 10 minutes ago? So I went to start the car and it wouldn't start. I attached the relay where it was supposed to be and tried again. No luck. Then I realized that the CEL didn't illuminate when turning the key on. Then I realized the factory boost gauge didn't rise when the key was on.

So...I pulled the cover off of the ECU....it's fried...

Still cannot figure out why the dummy light isn't shutting off....

3/8/13

My OEM Master Cylinder from STM came in the mail today. Tomorrow, my ECU and MPI Relay from Rob Fig will be here. Can't wait to get everything situated.

If the master cylinder does not fix my going into gear issue, I will pull the trans, remove one of the shims from the pivot ball, and also use a different clutch/pressure plate.

3/9/13

Installed the OEM master cylinder today. Bled the system, still wouldn't go into gear. So I decided to remove the trans AGAIN and replace the clutch with an Exedy stage 1 clutch.

When I removed the pressure plate and clutch...this is what I found.

Look closely.






So as you can see, I broke my clutch. I so wish I would have pulled the clutch off the first time I had my trans off last week. Damn thing would have been finished.

Anyway, I installed my friends Exeddy stage 1 clutch and pressure plate with less than 1K on it. It goes into gear now. My ECU and MPI relay came into the mail today as well. Didn't put them in yet as I ran out of daylight. Still have to put the UICP on, intake pipe, and other random stuff.

Old PP on bottom.




I put together a parts list of everything I need for my motor build. I have to do something soon so I can give my friend back his 6 bolt as he is getting real eager to start building his 1G again.

I am not sure what motor I am going to use yet. I would love to find a good 6 bolt block to build. But I have been thinking about getting my 7 bolt machined and use that again. Then drop some Evo 8/9 pistons and rods right in her. Here is my list.

Evo 8/9 Pistons
Crank
Main Bearings
Rod Bearings
ARP Main Studs
ARP Rod Cap Bolts
ARP Head Studs
Timing Belt Kit
Engine Gasket Kit
Head Hasket
Oil Filter
Starter Plate
Head Dowel Pin
Clutch Release Fork
Pivot Ball
Throw Out Bearing
Axle Seals
Hydralic Tensioner Bolts
Fidanza Flywheel
Fidanza Clutch Kit
Front Axles

Just this list is priced around $1800. So, we will see how it works out I guess.

Thats one toasted clutch...

More updates. Monday (3/18/13) my car caught on fire. Found my wiring problem haha. There were bare wires on the part of the harness that is in the left front wheel well. They got hot and caught on fire. I removed my battery terminal and threw snow on the fire. Monday night, I rewired all the bad wires.

Tuesday (3/9/13) my left front axle broke. I am about to put the new one in here in a few minutes.

$5 to correctly guesses my next part failure.

The night my axle broke, I also lost my dash, tail, and brake lights. I have been hunting that down the last week or so. I did find a blown brake light fuse. Now I have brake lights, but still do not have tail and dash lights.

I used a test light and found that the pin for my tail light fuse is not getting any power.

I also have installed my stock rear struts and springs that I got from Miller Import Parts. Looks kind of weird.

I need to fix my new wiring issue. Once the warm weather gets here, I am dropping the trans again so I can remove the shims from the pivot ball. Hopefully this cures my clutch slipping issue.

that should help aj, because with to many shims thats pushing the fork against the PP and not letting it put full force on the disk

Yea exactly. Just need a free weekend to pull the trans back off.

I feel ya man it sucks being busy all the time, I just got done moving, we arent settled in yet but the dsm is getting neglected at the moment.

UPDATE: 4-1-13

I blew the motor. April fools!

I have done a lot recently. My daughter and I fixed my wiring issue. I tore apart the part of the harness that caught on fire. I missed a couple wires so I fixed all of them and taped the harness back up. So my dash and tail lights work again.

I changed the oil. In the process, my daughter was crawling around in the car and found her Easter basket in the hatch. So I had to give it to her a night early lol.

Kurt invited me down for Easter dinner and told me his buddy could weld my exhaust. So I packed the 3" exhaust in the hatch and went down. We got the exhaust on and it sounds much better than I had expected.

Kurt fixed my front bumper that was held on by zip ties. So now the bumper is tight against the headlights and fenders. Made a very big difference.

We also fixed my o2 sensor. And Jared restored my ugly ass yellow headlights. Kurt and I both fell in love with the car again. So...she is not going to be sold and/or traded

Pics and vids!






Before


After


Before and After


After exhaust and other work

:thumbs up:

Thanks man. She's comin'.

Right now I just need to get mine done haha

Still waiting to see pics after paint work!!!! Side panels and full car shots plz.

X2 please

UPDATE:

Been awhile since I have updated this. She has been pretty reliable lately. The only repair I have needed to make was replacing a brake line on my left front. I also changed my front brake pads as they were getting warn.

I put a lot of work into the engine bay too. Kurt painted the valve cover, put the tubular header back on, took purple power to the firewall, etc.

I also took the 18's off and put the 2gb Eclipse wheels on.

Before the 18's came off, still no pics with the 16's on.

Got some pics today, Also put my tubular o2 housing on as well.

No pics do that valve cover any justice. Its Anodized Purple in person but in pictures it looks metallic Blue lol

Haven't updated this is a while so figured I would tonight. I have since installed an aftermarket intake pipe, 2ga Talon twisties (FINALLY!!!), poly motor mounts, and just now, I made my long route IC piping , into short route piping.

I am awaiting a rebuilt 6 bolt. A friend is selling it to me. Just waiting for him to pull it. When I get the new 6 bolt, I am installing a Fidanza flywheel and an ACT 2600.

No 7bolt write up yet?

A lot has happened since the last update. I ended up buying a 2Gb 7 bolt long block off of Rob Fig at FIG Inc. From him, I also got ARP head studs, an ACT 2600 clutch, and a few other misc things.

I put the motor in and used a 1G thermostat housing on my 2G head. The thing ran great for several months having a small issue every now and again. But for the most part, I was really happy with it.

On Christmas, a rod bearing let loose due to my stainless steel braided oil feed line breaking causing all my oil to come out. Boom. My damn dash lights quit on me about 20 minutes before this so I could not see any of my gauges without turning on the dome light every once in a while. Unfortunately, I didnt catch it in time.

I am most likely going to put the 6 bolt back together with all new gaskets, bearings, and a little machine work. I am going to have this car up and running in well enough time to attend the East Coast Shootout that is returning this year come June. That is my ultimate goal and I am have so much motivation that nothing will get in the way.

I would like to upgrade to a larger turbo and run ECMlink. At least a 16G, but maybe a 20G. I want to compete in the Stock Appearing class in the ECSO and this class requires the turbo to be a "J-pipe" turbo.

Here are some of my more recent pics.